The “new normal” in the world of wine – Fabio Piccoli
10 February 2021
Awards
28 March 2021
“The 2009 Amarone della Valpolicella Riserva De Buris shows the best of both sides of the Amarone spectrum. Savory raspberry and plum sauce are further complemented by notes of crushed stone and dusty florals. These aromas continue to gain in volume with time in the glass, as they are joined by a seductive display of rich brown spice and mocha. This is velvety in texture yet not weighty; in fact, it’s quite lifted and spry, with a core of concentrated red and black fruits that saturate all that they touch with a mineral tinge and then withdraw to reveal a note of sour citrus. There’s a subtle tug of tannin that lingers, doing a wonderful job of framing the expression, as this tapers off to a bitter twang of tart cherry and dark chocolate. The De Buris is a new cru Riserva from the highest elevations of Tommasi’s La Groletta vineyard, which hosts 30-year-old vines overlooking Lake Garda. It spends the first year of its refinement in Slavonian oak, followed by another five years in 15- to 30-hectoliter casks. This is only the second vintage for this wine, which has been a decade in the making.”
Eric Guido, Vinous.com
What’s Driving the Cult of Amarone Riserva?
Fifty years ago, Amarone was Italy’s third most revered red wine, trailing only Barolo and Brunello in stature.
But while the latter two wines have exploded in fame, Amarone has remained a mystery for most.
There are signs that Amarone will soon become a much bigger star. Perhaps the best indication of this is that we’re seeing riserva-class wines fetching far higher prices.
Valpolicella producers are sparing no expense to make a single monumental Amarone micro-cuvée, which they will keep 6 to 12 years before releasing it. While these gilded beauties are very costly to make and buy, they are likely to catch the world’s attention in a way few Amarones of the past ever did.
In the Spotlight
Eric Guido’s recent Vinous.com Veneto report is already heating things up, with requests for the top-rated wines flying around the wine trade. But perhaps even more important is that he’s shining a spotlight on this important trend.
De Buris Amarone della Valpolicella Classico doc Riserva 2009 with a score of 95 points is among the six riservas which are leading this ascent into Amarone’s future.
